Pairings | Grilled fish

The best food pairings for Vermentino
Vermentino is incredibly versatile - a brilliant wine pairing for anything fishy, herby or citrussy and a great wine for spring and summer drinking.
Most comes from Italy - Sardinia being a particularly good source - but it’s also produced in Liguria, Tuscany, Corsica, Provence and the Languedoc where it's also known as Rolle.
With crisp fresh young vermentinos I’d serve:
* Raw and marinated shellfish such as oysters and carpaccios
* Fritto misto or other fried fish - I had a lovely side of fried lemon and sage (below) at Spring recently
* Simply grilled or baked fish such as seabass especially with fresh olive oil or a salsa verde. Grilled squid. Grilled prawns or shrimp - try this recipe for prawn brochettes from Bruce Poole
* Spaghetti alle vongole, linguini with crab and other pasta dishes with seafood
* Spring and early summer vegetables such as asparagus, peas, broad (fava) beans, fennel and even artichokes
* Raw and lightly cooked vegetables such as marinated courgettes and leeks vinaigrette
* Dishes where herbs are predominant such as pasta or gnocchi with pesto
Late harvested or more mature vermentinos pair well with:
* Richer fish dishes such as lobster or lobster rice (a local Sardinian speciality)
* Light meat dishes such as roast veal, baby lamb and suckling pig.

The best food matches with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
The flavours of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc - and this is why it is so popular - are powerful and aromatic: citrus, gooseberry and passionfruit in spades. So you if you're looking for a food match need big flavours on your plate to stand up to it.
Here are my top suggestions:
Asian-style seafood dishes - oysters, scallops, crab, clams, lobster, prawns - any shellfish with zingy flavours or a citrus or garlic marinade or dressing. (Big fat garlicky prawns - mmmm).
Thai food generally. A Thai green chicken curry or a Thai-style chicken salad is ace.
Grilled fish especially squid* or swordfish.
Dishes with herbs and greens - salmon with dill, for instance, but great with recipes that contain basil, coriander, rocket and especially mint.
Salads with goats cheese and feta, asparagus, avocado or grilled red peppers, fresh tomato salads or salads with fennel, mango or papaya. (A great suggestion from Canadian wine pairing expert Francois Chartier: add a tabbouleh to a salad selection to show off a sauvignon blanc.)
Other good matches (though I personally prefer a less assertive style of sauvignon with them) include smoked salmon, fish and chips and oily fish such as mackerel and sardines.
Dishes that don't work so well are ones with creamy sauces or cooked tomato or, more obviously, meaty dishes with gravy or dark savoury sauces
* Basically if you see big flavoured fusion dishes like these (from Peter Gordon’s Kopapa, which has sadly now closed) reach for a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc:
Deep-fried sesame Urfa chilli salted squid, sumac aïoli, caramelised peanuts & cucumber
Fregola, chorizo & lemon stuffed squid, avocado puree, white radicchio, caper & mustard slaw, chervil vinaigrette

Some great food pairings for tequila
Despite the recent increase in interest in Mexican street food like tacos consumers in the UK still have to take to tequila (maybe because they’re too busy drinking gin) but in fact it’s an attractive and versatile spirit to pair with food
The style you’re most likely to come across is silver tequila, the type that’s most often used in a margarita, but you may also come across reposado tequilas which are aged in wood and anejo, older tequilas which are ideal for after-dinner drinking. (Think of them like rum: Silver is like white rum with a herbal twist, reposado like a golden rum and anejo like an aged sipping rum).
Obviously the natural starting point is Mexican food but there’s no reason why you shouldn’t drink tequila with other cuisines such as Latin American, Caribbean and newly fashionable African.
Here are the type of dishes that I think work best
Tacos
The street food of 2017, especially fish tacos which with a white or silver tequila. Try a reposado if you’re eating meatier tacos like pork
Raw fish
Particularly ceviche and punchily seasoned fish tartares but there's no reason why you shouldn’t try a silver tequila with sushi or sashimi
Grilled seafood like squid or prawns
Especially with garlic or a touch of chilli. Silver, again
A wide range of vegetables especially asparagus, green peppers and tomatillos (silver) and corn (reposado) Also avocado which of course is technically a fruit but counts as a veg in my book - guacamole being the obvious option
Recipes with fresh herbs especially coriander
Again this appears regularly in Mexican food but there’s no reason why you shouldn’t sip a silver tequila with Indian street food like samosas or puris and green chutney. It should go with middle eastern grills and salads too.
Recipes with citrus especially lime and orange
Citrus works particularly well with the flavour of agave (the plant from which tequila is made)
Pork
Pulled, grilled, served with corn (like posole) - all good with a reposado. Think also empanadas with a pork filling
Steak
You can partner a good steak or burger with a reposado or an anejo. Even fajitas though I probably wouldnt drink anything tooo fancy with them.
Chocolate
Like most aged spirits anejo tequila goes well with dark chocolate - or even milk chocolate if it’s Mexican which has a particularly delicious fudgy texture.
There's a useful longer article on pairing food with tequila here.
Six of the best drinks to pair with tacos
Image © anaumenko @fotolia.com

The best food pairings for white rioja
White rioja is tricky when it comes to wine pairing as it comes in such contrasting styles. There are the crisp fresh unoaked white riojas which behave much like a sauvignon blanc and much richer barrel-fermented ones which can tackle more intensely-flavoured fish and meat dishes
The latter are more characteristic of the region but even these vary depending on the age of the wine. Young ones behave much like a chardonnay with food, older ones - and white rioja does age magnificently - more like a white Rhône
Here are some of my favourite pairings:
Crisp unoaked white rioja
simply grilled fish and shellfish
garlicky prawns or grilled squid
gazpacho
Spanish-style salads
Barrel-aged white riojas of 2-3 years old
almonds
serrano and other Spanish ham
salt cod dishes such as croquetas
menestra (spring vegetable stew) and other braised vegetable dishes
paella and other rice dishes with saffron
dishes with aioli (garlic mayonnaise)
white asparagus
tortilla and other savoury egg dishes
More mature barrel-aged riojas
rich fish dishes such as roast turbot
hake with garlic and clams
grilled tuna
robust fish stews
grilled lobster and other rich lobster dishes like this experimental dish of lobster and sweetcorn
roast chicken, turkey or guineafowl
sautéed chicken dishes with sherry
chicken or pork dishes with creamy sauces
grilled pork or veal chops
Full-flavoured sheeps cheeses like this rosemary coated ewe’s milk cheese
Also see these excellent suggestions from Vina Tondonia
See also The best food pairings for red rioja

Dry or fruity? Which style of white wine pairs best with simply grilled fish?
About the last place I’d have expected to have an enlightening discussion about food and wine matching is in a fisherman’s shack called Chez Loulou down on the Languedoc coast. Actually I do it an injustice. It’s a restaurant - just - but one that relies for its appeal on fabulously fresh fish rather than fantastically skilled cooking.
The owner though, whose name I don’t yet know, has absolutely the right attitude to wine. How many restauranteurs when you order a particular wine would ask you how you like it - dry or fruity? (The wine in question being the local Picpoul de Pinet.)
When we hesitated he went on to suggest that if we were looking for a wine to drink as an aperitif we should choose a fruity one whereas if we were concerned to match the grilled sea bass we had ordered we should opt for a drier style.
Of course this advice is particularly apposite in France where, when you order grilled fish, that’s what you get. They don’t go in for veg or other accompaniments that might possibly create a bridge to a fruitier wine.
But there is a useful insight here - namely that ultra-dry whites that don’t particularly shine on their own (Muscadet being the other obvious example) spring to life when partnered with simply cooked, ultra-fresh fish. And that fruitier wines can sometimes overwhelm their delicate sweet flavour.
It also shows how deeply engrained knowledge of food and wine still is in the average Frenchman!
Although not enough to keep the restaurant going, sadly. It has closed since I wrote this post!
See also...
- 12 great wine pairings with salmon
- What's the best wine pairing for tuna?
- When to pair red wine with fish
Image credit: Oleksandr P
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